Fit for a sultan

In the heart of Ordu's Ünye district sits an unassuming Ottoman period stone building that houses what I think is one of the best restaurants on the Black Sea coast, Sofra Osmanlı Mutfağı or Sofra Ottoman Kitchen.

The moment you walk in and are greeted by the friendly staff laboring from an open kitchen and hearth you know you are someplace special. We visited them during odd hours and so had the place mostly to ourselves. Come during weekday lunch, however, and you'll find it crowded with Ünye's business set.

Sofra's fare includes the standards of most Turkish kebab restaurants, but with an Ottoman twist. For example, I had kuzu (lamb) shish kebab, but served over Sofra's warm version of babaganuj (baba ghanoush--a garlicky middle eastern puree of roasted eggplant). The dish is similar to Ali Nazik kebab which hails for Turkey's Gaziantep province, and the combination is savory.

In line with Sofra's quality, prices were about a third higher than other local restaurants--a fact that's held against it in some online reviews. But if you're looking for a real treat during a stop in Ünye, look no further than Sofra.