Çamlıhemşin's road less traveled

“Two roads diverged in a yellow wood…”

So Robert Frost began his famous poem The Road Not Taken. Just above Çamlıhemşin (Cham-luh-hem-sheen) in Rize province the road diverges. The masses turn left to the famous Ayder plateau, a mountain resort town in Kaçkar (Kotch-car) National Park. But the road less traveled— the one veering right—leads to an ancient castle, a cozy cabin, and an off-the-beaten path tour of the Kaçkar highlands.  

Zilkale Castle (zeal-kah-lay)

Zilkale (“bell castle”) is a 14th-century Silk Road garrison outpost built at an elevation of 1,130 meters and is 12 km from Çamlıhemşin town center. The castle, which sits out on a little notch towering over the Fırtına River 380 meters below, boasts restored inner and outer walls, a lookout tower, and a chapel. The views of the surrounding mountains and forests are outstanding, and climbing around the old castle walls makes for a fun attraction with no shortage of photo opportunities.  Just outside the castle is a cafe serving tea, Turkish coffee, and all your favorite local dishes, making Zilkale a great lunch stop on your way up the mountains. Entrance to the castle is 3 TL.

Zilkalesi (photo credit: Shannon Burns)

Zilkalesi (photo credit: Shannon Burns)

Çat Village (chaht)

From Zilkale continue another 12 km southward into the mountains to Çat Village, where you can spend the night in the valley at the riverside Cancık (john-jick) Pension. The fun of overnighting at Cancık is staying the serender cabins. These cabins are built in the style of the local traditional stilted outdoor grain storage sheds. Cancık has made them into cozy two-story cabins. Serender fun fact: each stilt supporting the shed has a large smooth wooden disc around the post, preventing mice from climbing into the grain—or in this case, your bed. So open the window and enjoy the cool mountain air and the sounds of the rushing river. Turkish breakfast is included with your stay; if you are around for lunch or dinner, I recommend the fresh pan-fried trout. 

Serender cabin at Cancık Pension (photo credit: Shannon Burns)

Dinner under cabin at Cancık Pension (photo credit: Shannon Burns)

Yayla (yai-luh)

From Çat you can take your pick of mountain highland plateaus (yayla) to visit. One of the more famous ones is Verçenik Yaylası (Vare-chen-eek Yai-luh-suh), which sits at an elevation of 2,675 meters. Verçenik offers plenty of great camping sites, hiking, and ten small lakes. One of the highest peaks in the Kaçkar mountains is nearby: Verçenik Mountain (3,711 meters). Verçenik Yaylası is 17 long, rocky-road kilometers from Çat, but repays your effort with stunning natural beauty.

Verçenik Yaylası (photo credit: Yıldırım Güngör)

To be sure, following the crowds to Ayder will not leave you disappointed—we'll highlight the town in a forthcoming post. But taking the road less traveled from Çamlıhemşin will make all the difference in enjoying the mountains of Rize province.