The Black Sea's Hidden Paradise
Şavşat is the Black Sea coast's hidden paradise. Far away from Trabzon's lakeside Üzüngöl resort village or Rize's highlands town Ayder, Şavşat rests in tranquility in upper Artvin province. What Şavşat lacks in touristy foot-traffic, it more than makes up for in stunning mountain vistas, lush green pastures, and cool evening air.
Sure, it is out of the way. But like most good things in life, taking in Şavşat's natural beauty requires a bit of extra effort. From seaside Hopa, the drive in 130 km through Artvin province. If you time in just right, you can stop just shy of Artvin city center at the Artvin Sofrası for lunch—the pan-roasted beef (sac kavurma) is excellent and you can fly 400 meters across the Çoruh River on one of the region's largest zip-lines.
Approximately 10 km before arriving in Şavşat you'll come to the intersection of the Ardahan road (the one you are traveling on) and the Meydancık road. At that intersection, on the right, you will see a small cafe, serving up the best tea outside of Rize. I'm not sure what he does to make it so good, but everybody stops there for tea and you should too.
Arriving in Şavşat your first stop will be the Şavşat Castle, a 10th-century Georgian structure.
From the castle, proceed through town to the Laşet cabins, one of the most beautiful places to stay in the area.
The Tibet (or, Cevizli) Church is one of several old church buildings in the area—and is the one in the best shape.
Karagöl National Park is a must-see.
Fish Lake (Balık Gölü) is out of way in an already out-of-the-way place. The ride there was bumpy, but the views along the way are worth it. The last time I was there a cafe was being built, but this type of place just cries out for a picnic.
History, fresh air, natural beauty, quiet nights, afternoon thunderstorms, succulent trout. Make the trek to upper Artvin and experience the Black Sea region's hidden paradise. Here is a map to set you on your way in and around Şavşat.